Welcome to Our Life in Chiang Rai — our personal journal of daily life, adventures, art, and discoveries in Northern Thailand.
Two days with the Akha Hill Tribe – Eco Printing with Children – July 16-17, 2026
On 16 and 17 July I was invited by Tang (FB – Bunthanom Sripheaw) and Nong (FB – Mamanong VJ) to travel to the northern part of Chiang Rai Province. After a long, winding drive we arrived at Mae Fah Luang Hospital in the mountains to do eco printing with local Akha children with disabilities and their parents.This was something they had done before with our teacher NokNoi Price (see her on Facebook) from Huai Sak. Because I have years of experience teaching creative activities to people with disabilities in France and have been working with eco printing for a long time, I was happy to join my friends for this special day.
Nong and I have also taken lessons from NokNoi several times and have gone through the entire process in her atelier. Collecting leaves and flowers, carefully cleaning the teak leaves and cutting away the thick veins, preparing the fabric with mordant (to fix the colours), wrapping with plastic, elastic bands and wooden sticks — it’s quite intensive work. Then everything is steamed for about 1.5 hours in large pans. But the result is always worth the effort: turning nothing into something beautiful brings big smiles to everyone’s faces.
Two foundations organise these day activities for Akha children with disabilities in the mountains near the Myanmar border — a private foundation and the Mae Fah Luang Foundation. Parents are also actively involved. There is snacks, drinks, and a warm lunch, and at the end of the day the children go home with their own eco-printed scarf, colouring books, pencils, and an extra meal for the family. The farewell is always warm and heartfelt. For me it was a truly unforgettable experience.
The drive through the countryside of Chiang Rai is beautiful — jungle alternating with rice fields and plantations, small villages and towns. It feels like real Thailand: traditional wooden houses mixed with modern ones, good coffee shops (where you can often eat as well), restaurants and eco-resorts with views of the mountains, rivers or lakes. Once you leave the main road, the route consists mostly of winding roads and sometimes dirt tracks. This is Thailand at its most authentic — closer to the people and far away from the usual tourist spots.
The Weather in Chiang Rai: Four Distinct Faces of the North – June 6, 2026
Chiang Rai lies at a higher altitude than most of Thailand, and you can really feel it. The climate is cooler, more varied, and clearly seasonal — very different from the monotonous tropical heat of the coast or Bangkok. Those who live or travel here quickly learn that the year doesn’t simply divide into two or three seasons, but actually has four distinct faces. Now that we live here permanently, we are experiencing all of them for the first time.
The Cool Season – November to February
The most beautiful time of year starts in October. The rain disappears, the sky clears, and temperatures become wonderfully pleasant — around 25°C during the day and sometimes surprisingly fresh at night. The hills are still green from the rainy season, the views are crisp and far-reaching, and life happens mostly outdoors. This is peak season, and for good reason: Chiang Rai is at its best. Last year we arrived back from France in mid-September and fully enjoyed the cool season, even on the quite chilly days.
The Burning Season (Smokey Season) – February to April
Somewhere in February everything changes. Temperatures start to rise, but what really defines this period is not just the heat — it’s the smoke. Farmers in the region burn crop residues after harvest, an ancient practice that is officially banned but still widely done. Without rain to clear the air and with little wind in the valleys, the smog builds up. The hills disappear behind a grey haze, the sun turns orange, and going outside becomes a conscious decision. In March and early April the Smokey Season is at its worst. At the same time temperatures can climb to 38–40°C or higher. The combination of intense heat and poor air quality makes this the toughest time of the year. (We wrote more about this in our story “Escaping the Smokey Season” — scroll down to find it.)
The Rainy Season – May to October
Then, usually in April or May, the first real rains arrive. Within days the smog disappears, the air becomes clean again, and everything turns lush and green. The rainy season in Chiang Rai is pronounced — wetter than in Chiang Mai, with heavy downpours that can flood the streets. But it is rarely grey all day. The rain usually falls in the afternoon, while mornings are often bright. The nature is incredibly green, the waterfalls are spectacular, and the tourists are mostly gone.
New Air Conditioning Installation
Living here is in many ways the opposite of Europe. In Europe you heat your house; here you cool it. We used to have air conditioning only in the bedroom, but that wasn’t enough for the rest of the apartment. We recently had a powerful new air conditioning system installed in the living room. It’s a big unit because one outer wall faces directly south and the balcony gets strong morning sun. The installation was done a week ago and it’s fantastic — what a luxury!
Today is June 6th and I think the real rainy season has only just begun. Looking at the forecast, it’s going to rain every day for the coming week. We’re curious to see how this season will unfold. Some people actually enjoy it because of the cooler temperatures.
A Weekend with Steve and Sermsri – Exploring Northeastern Thailand May 16-17, 2026
This past weekend we were invited by our friends Steve and Sermsri (who live in Thoeng District, Chiang Rai) to join them for a special trip. We visited three wonderful places that left a deep impression.
Rocket Festival
On Saturday we attended the famous Rocket Festival (Boun Bang Fai). This is a traditional merit-making ceremony celebrated by ethnic Thai and Lao communities at the start of the rainy season. It was an extraordinary experience — we were the only foreigners (“farangs”) there over the two days.
We watched colourful processions with beautifully decorated floats carrying the rockets, traditional dances, and on the second day the exciting (and sometimes risky) rocket launches. Most rockets weigh about 50 kilos. The atmosphere was lively with street food, music, and thousands of local people. It was both festive and deeply cultural. (watch video launch of rocket below)
Wat Nantaram – One of the Oldest Temples in Thailand
In the afternoon we visited Wat Nantaram in Phayao Province, believed to be one of the oldest temples in the region. The wooden temple has a rich history and was beautifully restored in the 1920s–1930s thanks to the devotion of a local benefactor. It has a peaceful and ancient atmosphere.
Tai Lue Weaving Center
For Agnes, the highlight was visiting the Tai Lue Weaving Center at Ban Thung Moak in Chiang Kham. The Tai Lue people have a long tradition of beautiful handwoven textiles. Agnes, coming from a weaving family herself and working with textiles for many years, was fascinated by their techniques and patterns. We bought a lovely handwoven tablecloth as a special memory.
The photos and videos we took tell the story better than words. It was a wonderful weekend full of culture, friendship, and new experiences — exactly the kind of weekend we love.
Boun Bang Fai history – Thai Rocket Festival – See this website for a full story and history of this Legend festival: https://sonasia-holiday.com/sonabee/boun-bang-fai-rocket-festival-thailand-and-laos
Tai Lue Weaving Center details:
Escaping the “Smokey Season” May 5 – 2026
The photos tell part of the story.
Life in Chiang Rai is very pleasant – we’ve said that many times, and we truly mean it. But there is one recurring downside: the annual “Smokey Season”, as it’s commonly called here. This period of heavy air pollution can last up to about six weeks and is caused by farmers burning their fields after harvest. It mainly affects northern and central Thailand, as well as neighbouring Laos and Myanmar who burn their fields too! The Thai government has been trying to solve it for years, but the tradition goes back hundreds of years and a real solution is still hard to find.
That’s why, during the last two weeks of April, we drove south with our newly purchased Toyota Innova to escape the smoke. It was also a perfect opportunity to test the car on a long trip. Our journey went as follows: from Chiang Rai to Phitsanulok for the first night, then on to Kanchanaburi. There I wanted to visit the famous River Kwai Bridge and the Death Railway Museum. I once knew someone who had worked on that railway as a prisoner of war during the Japanese occupation. The museum leaves a deep impression of the immense suffering and brutality that took place during the construction of the “Death Railway” – tens of thousands of prisoners of war and forced labourers died under horrific conditions.
A nice moment was our private boat trip back to the hotel, during which we sailed right under the iconic Bridge over the River Kwai.
Our final destination was Cha-Am, a quiet coastal town just north of Hua Hin, where we stayed for a week. We liked it much better than the busier and more touristy Hua Hin. Cha-Am, especially the northern part along the sea, is pleasantly calm and has a colourful, authentic fishing village. The long, peaceful beach walks were wonderful for clearing the mind, and the fresh seafood restaurants right on the beach were a real treat.
Special mention should be made of the super friendly family restaurant “C-Breeze” in Cha-Am, with the amazing chef Pam in the kitchen. They serve both Thai and Western dishes with fresh, top-quality ingredients at an affordable price.
On the way back to Chiang Rai we stayed two more nights. First in Ayutthaya, where we visited a beautiful museum and learned that the Dutch (VOC), Japanese and Chinese all traded here centuries ago. The next night was in Uttaradit, which unfortunately had a rather disappointing hotel. The final drive home went smoothly, and by the time we arrived the Smokey Season was almost over – a big relief.
Another special mention goes to “Sun Proudly Cafe”, we found near Phrae on the way to Chiang Rai, with the best Coffee and excellent service. Sun-Proudly-Cafe
One thing that struck us during the entire trip: almost everywhere we drove, we saw burned fields. That polluted air was exactly why we headed south. Next year we’ll probably do another trip south for a month – it will be fun to discover another quiet spot by the sea, we’ll see.
Songkran – The Last Day of Thai New Year – April 15 – 2026
Today is the final day of Songkran, Thailand’s traditional New Year celebration. The word “Songkran” comes from the ancient Pali and Sanskrit languages and literally means “passing” or “transition”. It refers to the astronomical moment when the sun moves from the constellation of Pisces into Aries, marking the start of the new year according to the traditional Thai lunar calendar.
In practice, Songkran is celebrated from April 13 to 15 and is a time for spiritual renewal. People visit temples, wash Buddha statues, make offerings to monks, and reconcile with family and friends. One of the most visible traditions is the water splashing – symbolically washing away bad luck and sins from the past year so everyone can begin the new year fresh and clean.
This morning from our studio we watched the local ambulance crew perform their Songkran ceremony. They made offerings and said prayers, and as a final gesture they sounded the sirens of the ambulances.
While Songkran originally had a quiet, deeply religious meaning, in modern times it has also grown into a lively nationwide water festival, very popular with both Thais and tourists alike.
Visit to a Lanna Art Market – Tuesday 14 April – 2026
This morning we visited the Lanna Art Market in the beautiful garden of the Meridian Hotel here in Chiang Rai.
One of the stalls belonged to NokNoi, a colleague and friend of Agnes who also creates Eco Prints. At her stand we met Mamanong VJ, who works with NokNoi. She sold Agnes a lovely dress.
Agnes regularly drives with her friend Sue (also an Eco Printer) to NokNoi’s atelier to spend a full day Eco Printing together. It’s about an hour’s drive southeast from Chiang Rai, in a truly beautiful area.The photos tell the story.
Wheels to get around – April 13 – 2026
It took us a while, but now that I have both Thai driver’s license (motorcycle and car), it was finally time to look for a good second-hand car. Agnes prefers sitting a bit higher, and so do I, so we were looking for something like an SUV. From experience I know that Toyota scores very high on reliability, has low maintenance costs and affordable spare parts.
The main reason is that we want to explore much more of beautiful Northern Thailand. The nature is stunning, there are many authentic villages and small towns to visit, and we’re also interested in learning more about the different hill tribes living here, such as the Akha, Karen, Hmong and Lanna people. Agnes, who has been working with textiles for many years, is especially keen to discover their beautiful traditional clothing and the techniques they use to produce these unique fabrics.
Then one day I saw an advertisement on Facebook Marketplace for a 2012 Toyota Innova. It was exactly what we were looking for — it hit the bull’s eye. We decided to buy it right away.Thanks to the super friendly and professional service of Ton Auto’s in Chiang Rai, the purchase went very smoothly. It happened to be exactly on the day the “oil crisis” started, when it was suddenly difficult to get petrol. We managed to negotiate a full tank of fuel included in the deal. Luckily things have almost returned to normal now, although prices are a bit higher.Interestingly, the Thai government lowered the tax on petrol, in contrast to the EU which actually increased both the price and the tax on fuel.
Aroy Aroy: Thai Food Heaven – From Agnes’ Kitchen Notes – January 15 – 2026
“Aroy Aroy” is how Thais say something tastes really good – it’s their fun way of saying “delicious” (like “aroy aroy” in playful repetition). There’s so much variety here in dishes and cooking styles – it’s a study in itself! Whether eating at restaurants, grabbing street food from the market, or making it at home, every meal feels like a celebration. Cooking ourselves is actually more expensive, but having all those ingredients, herbs, and sauces on hand is already a big advantage. And the recipes? I usually ask the Thai women around me. With a translator, I figure out what they mean, and off I go to the market. The market is open every day, both daytime and evening. I recently heard a Thai say that if you go in the afternoon, you’re lazy! Another story claims prices are higher then… I don’t notice it at my regular spots, though. When it’s hot, you naturally go early anyway. I also collect photos of what I eat whenever it’s “Aroy Aroy” – whether from outside or my own home cooking. You’ll see them in this post. Enjoy your meal and savor every bite – Aroy Aroy!
Recipe: Green Papaya Salad from Jen;
Green papaya is called “malacoi dip som tam” here.
Ingredients: garlic, papaya, tomatoes, lime juice, chilies, coconut sugar, fish sauce, carrot, dried shrimp, and optional peanuts.
Winter in Chiang Rai – January 10 – 2026
As mentioned before, we shipped fifteen boxes and twenty of our own paintings – about 2 m³ in total – by sea freight from France to Chiang Rai, Thailand. Everything arrived safely and without any damage on December 4th. If you ever need to ship something by sea from Europe, I highly recommend WindMill Forwarding – a reliable Dutch international mover and shipper. We’ve had great experiences with them!
Of course, our newly purchased apartment had to feel like us, so we repainted several walls and finally hung up our own paintings again. And let’s not forget: I ordered another large vintage world map from https://www.fotobehang.com/vintage-wereldkaart.html – this is the third time I’ve put one up in the living room. I’m obsessed with maps! The furniture came included with the purchase and is excellent quality, so that was a nice bonus. By now, we truly feel at home here. We occasionally have visitors, like the three lovely ladies from the apartment-hotel’s management/staff, see photo. The atmosphere is fantastic, and the staff – around 12 people – are exceptionally kind and helpful.
I
I could talk for hours about the climate here. As a kid, I already knew the Netherlands could never be my forever home because of its terrible weather. Moving to France in 1999 was a big improvement, but Thailand – especially the north – has a very pleasant climate. Of course, there are seasons: the winter months from October to April are delightful, with hardly any rain and temperatures between 23–32°C (73–90°F). From April to late September it gets hotter (30–40°C / 86–104°F) with more rain. The images below show the 2-week forecast for January 10–24 in Chiang Rai – mostly sunny, dry, and comfortably warm (highs around 27–30°C / 81–86°F, cool nights around 13–16°C / 55–61°F, very little chance of rain).
The boxes also contained a lot of my painting supplies. So now that we’ve got more peace after all the paperwork and settling in, I’ll soon start painting again. Maybe portraits, or perhaps something tropical-inspired. We’ve just renewed the rent for our cozy studio on the second floor – what a luxury!
The Bitter and the Sweet – November 9 – 2025
On 14 September we flew from Paris CDG to Bangkok BKK. The intention was to continue the same day to Chiang Rai CEI. But as happens more often these days, a single message changed everything. On 19 August Bangkok Bank informed me that I had thirty days to appear in person at the Pattaya branch where the account was opened, to provide updated documents and explain my financial situation. The account was frozen. Non-compliance would make it permanently inaccessible. I had already transferred the first payment for an apartment in Chiang Rai. The news kept me awake for nights. Fortunately our flight was on the 14th, just within the deadline. There are no direct flights from BKK to Pattaya, so we took a taxi—two hours, a fixed 1,200 baht (€32). (By comparison, almost the same distance from La Charité-sur-Loire to CDG costs €600.)
We know a comfortable apartment-hotel in Pattaya now; we stayed five days. First priority: unfreeze the account—a laborious task. Second: convert Agnes’s 90-day visa into a Non-O retirement visa, linked to mine, creating a joint family visa. Thanks to a remarkably helpful young bank employee, the account was restored after extensive paperwork and explanations. The visa followed. Five days in total. I will spare the details; it was far from pleasant. Yet nearly everyone we dealt with was courteous, honest and genuinely trying to help. The difficulty lies not with the staff but with the regulations imposed from above, revised sometimes monthly, sometimes weekly. Hundreds of thousands received the same letter. The Thai press describes it as a measure against money laundering. In Vietnam, millions of accounts are said to have been frozen. It sounds serious—and it is. Yet it has no bearing on daily life here, which remains, for us, close to paradise.
We arrived in Chiang Rai almost a week late and were welcomed warmly by friends and the staff at our building. The remaining apartment payments were completed. As if I felt it, the first thing I bought was a printer. Then came the next obstacle: the Land Office requires a bank statement proving that funds transferred from Europe are specifically for the purchase. The bank would only issue it with unambiguous proof. Another two weeks of effort and lots of printing. Again, our very kind Thai apartment-building staff and bank employees made the difference, all went well and on the 4th of November when we could say, we are now the owners of a very nice comfortable apartment in Chiang Rai. In the meantime I passed the Thai motorcycle test—theory and practical. My car license converted automatically via an international permit. (One can even board domestic flights here with a Thai driver’s license.) We bought a new Honda PCX 160. It makes shopping and short trips a pleasure. Soon we will ride northwest into the mountains; the area is exceptionally beautiful.
Since we spend part of the year here, we shipped fifteen boxes and twenty of our own paintings—about 2 m³—by sea freight. Two days ago we learned they will arrive 25 or 26 November. A welcome prospect. The bureaucratic struggles were draining, yet already receding into memory. Life here is deeply agreeable. We value the simplicity: uneven pavements, weathered buildings, lively traffic, outstanding food, abundant nature, friendly people, and excellent medical care. Walking the streets one sees unfinished structures, tangled wiring, colorful food stalls in all sizes, families of four on a scooter, children and staff in the open back of pick-ups. Things that would be impossible and never permitted in Europe. Precisely that unpolished freedom is what makes the place feel alive. That is why I choose to live here. How long it will remain untouched by global uniformity, I cannot say. Long enough, I trust. Winter is settling in gently: daytime temperatures 25–30 °C, nights 18–22 °C, almost no rain. I have no complaints.
Chiang Rai Calling: Why It’s Our Winter Home – August 18 / 2025
As I mentioned earlier, “Chiang Rai won, hands down,” but let me explain why this choice makes perfect sense. We weren’t looking for a city or place overrun with mass tourism, which quickly ruled out popular coastal spots like Bangkok, Phuket, Pattaya, and even Chiang Mai. A milder climate was also key, pointing us to northern Thailand. That led us straight to the authentic city of Chiang Rai, home to about 60,000 people. After spending five months living here, we can say it’s been a perfect fit. No overwhelming tourism, pleasant temperatures, a cozy city size, friendly locals, and a seamless blend of like-minded expats and Thai residents—it’s exactly the vibe we wanted for our winter months in Thailand. A colorful bonus is the nearby hill tribes, like the Akha, Hmong, and Karen, who bring their vibrant traditional clothing and fresh produce to Chiang Rai’s shops and markets.
It’s a seven-minute walk to the city center, where Agnes visits the market almost daily, picking up fresh, delicious goods. We get around on a scooter, which we rented from Gam last time, but this winter, I’m planning to buy a Honda PCX 150 cc. Riding the scooter is a breeze—you adapt to the flow of traffic, go with the rhythm, and it’s perfectly manageable. We’ve found our go-to spots: a place for real, tasty chickens, a great bakery, quality meat, and a few favorite restaurants where we’re now regulars. We love walking, which we do often, though the Thai find it odd to walk even 30 meters when a scooter’s an option. Chiang Rai has beautiful parks and quiet riverbanks perfect for strolls. The north is also investing heavily in organic farming, with small-scale projects popping up that might attract a new kind of traveler in the future—a promising development, if you ask me.
As you’ve read, we’ve rented a studio where Agnes and I can paint, so I’m excited to dive back into portrait painting, which had taken a backseat in recent years.
Another big reason we’re drawn to Thailand for the winter months—beyond the warm climate that’s always been a draw—is the state of the world. Europe has changed significantly, and not for the better, especially since 2020. I won’t dive into specifics or political opinions, but life in Thailand feels far more pleasant. The polarization we see in the West doesn’t exist here. Geopolitical topics barely come up. People are focused on living well, which is exactly what we were seeking. We’ve met wonderful people—both expats and Thai, from all corners of the world—many of whom, like us, have traveled extensively and chosen Chiang Rai. That’s no coincidence.
Unlike Europe, where finding a doctor or dentist has become a major challenge with waiting times of sometimes months, Chiang Rai has no such issues. The city boasts four hospitals, and I’ve heard from several people who’ve been treated here that the care is at least as good as what we know in Europe, if not better. Thai dentists are renowned as some of the best in the world, and you’ll find dental practices scattered throughout the city. I am 73 years old now in 2026, we’re thinking carefully about the future. We hope to stay healthy for many years, but if we ever need a retirement home, the costs in Europe are simply unaffordable for us. That’s a major factor in choosing Chiang Rai, where healthcare and living expenses are both high-quality and budget-friendly. Our plan is to split our time—six months in France, six months in Chiang Rai—but who knows, in a few years, we might decide to make Thailand our permanent home. (Update, we do live now permanent in Thailand).
Would you like to hold on to your own memories and stories, too?
I built a little app for exactly that — timewander. It’s simple, free, and entirely yours: add a memory, a year, a photo, a place, and watch your own life story take shape, decade by decade. No account, no ads, nothing to install from a store — just open it and start here: TimeWander App